EVENTS AND NEWS

aljomar's blog

Manuel López, ham tuner

Today we rediscovered this interview with the renowned ham taster Manuel López, which was published exactly a year ago in La Vanguardia. We thought it would be interesting to share; it's quite intriguing and entertaining. INTERVIEW How many hams has he cut in his life? Three a day for 25 years… That's about 27,000 hams! Shall I cut you a slice of this Iberian ham leg? Why do I like Iberian ham so much? Because it has umami. What is “umami”? The fifth taste. It was discovered by a Japanese researcher studying a certain type of seaweed. Describe that flavor to me. Beyond the salty, sweet, bitter, and sour flavors, it's addictive… Try this ham! Hmm… It's a unique, singular, distinct flavor: we have a gastronomic treasure here! What ham did you just give me? A slice (very well cut) of Iberian ham of the highest quality. What does a "well-cut" slice look like? Sliced ​​very thinly. And short. So that it fits whole in your mouth and its fat melts… What a great sin not to slice a great ham properly! What do you understand by “excellent quality”? The ham comes from an Iberian breed pig raised in the dehesa (pastureland), castrated, that has eaten grass and acorns, that has run and trotted, slaughtered at the right moment (January is the best month), and whose leg has been salted, consolidated, dried in a drying room and matured in a cellar under the precise conditions… And isn't all Iberian ham like that? No, because there is Iberian ham from recebo (pastureland, acorns… and supplemented with feed), there is Iberian ham from cebo de campo (field, without acorns and only feed) and there is Iberian ham from cebo (stallized and only feed). Is there a noticeable difference between them? Of course! That's why the great distinction between Iberian ham from the pasture and industrial Iberian ham should be specified by law. How is exceptional quality achieved? Raise an Iberian pig in the dehesa, among holm oaks, feeding it only grass and acorns, slaughter it at the ideal time, and cure it under perfect conditions. That's what I do! To what, exactly? I supervise and select the best pieces. ham tuner, Manuel Lopez Is that what it means to be a "ham tuner"? In France there is the "cheese affineur", who guides the curing of cheeses to obtain optimal pieces... I do that with Iberian ham legs, and that's how I get the optimal ones. And how many legs does it gain per year? About four thousand, for my establishment and to export to my partner in Japan. Is Iberian ham well-known outside of Spain? It's still a little while, but as soon as they try it, their faces light up... They're amazed! Another little slice, please… Take this… Iberian ham surpasses the three gastronomic pearls: caviar, foie gras and truffle. Explain your reasoning . It surpasses them in its superior flavor nuances and nutritional qualities. Is Iberian ham very nutritious? It's a food rich in B vitamins and antioxidants. Its fat stores oleic acid, the same acid found in extra virgin olive oil, which helps protect our arteries. This quality distinguishes Iberian ham from other hams like Serrano, prosciutto, and others. Is this due to the breed of pig? Yes, a native pig breed with genetics that infiltrates fat into the meat, making it so delicious! That fat absorbs and stores the essence of everything the pig eats. Yes? Can you taste the acorn? Absolutely! And if there are cork oaks, you can definitely taste that note. And from aromatic shrubs too. I once tasted a ham and I could taste the thyme! I'd eaten too much. Where does your work as a “ham tuner” begin? I locate the small farmers who lovingly raise their Iberian breed pigs, and the artisanal drying sheds that treat the curing of their hams with great care. Aren't most people doing it that way? A fifth of the 500,000 Iberian ham legs produced annually (on average). And there I am: I feel the legs, I guide their curing… I've felt and cut so many hams since I was 14 that I know which ones will be really good! What are the designations of origin for Iberian ham? There are four: Huelva, Guijuelo, Dehesa de Extremadura and Valle de los Pedroches. Which of them is your favorite ham? It depends… The one from Huelva (that's where the Jabugo brand is) has nutty notes… The one from Guijuelo has sweeter notes, like toasted sugar. The one from Extremadura is somewhere in between… How do you recommend I eat good Iberian ham? Freshly sliced. Eaten with your fingers. And you don't need anything else. Ham is the golden bachelor of gastronomy!, according to Arzak. And what should I drink to go with it? The best pairing is a glass of cava, which refreshes the palate. Or a small glass of fino or manzanilla sherry, a great geographical match. Red wine, on the other hand… is too overpowering: it doesn't pair well with Iberian ham! Which part of the leg is your favorite? Because of its high intensity of flavor, I like the ham that is at the tip of the leg that touches the hip bone. What are those little white dots I sometimes see on the ham meat? Crystallized amino acids: fantastic! What is the best ham you can remember ever tasting? I was 15 years old, I went hiking with friends, we stopped to eat in the forest, I took out my homemade ham sandwich and… and I still haven't forgotten that fabulous pleasure!

NUESTRAS

MARCAS